miércoles, 9 de septiembre de 2009

Viva Chile


I went to class for a couple of days then boarded a bus to Chile. The drive over the Andes was absolutely incredible. The mountain peaks were stunning. We fell asleep for a short while then woke up just before we dropped down into a lush green city, Vina del Mar. We took some money out of the ATMs, and in Chile it's 550 pesos to 1 dollar so we were about to pay $26,000 for a meal and $370 for bus rides. It was entertaining and easy to spend unfortunately. We explored the town and the markets which were overwhelming and colorful. From the beach by our hostel we could see Valparaiso, Renaca, and Con-Con; the views were captivating and it was nice to see the ocean again. That night we boarded a bus to Con-Con not really knowing where we would get off, or how much it cost. The bus driver offered to drive the poor lost gringos straight to the restaurant. The area was a ghost town, but we found a quaint seafood place where we would eat. We enjoyed fresh ceviche and fish, wine, and salads until very late. It was an adventure getting home, but we made it. In Chile, it was our experience that the drivers steer straight for pedestrians, and speed up if there's an opportunity. We had to jump out of the path of one of such drivers, and we fell into the grass laughing.
The next day we explored the town and more markets. The people in Chile are lovely and really friendly. Walking through town you will get whiffs of fresh bread that tempt you at every corner. Oh and the meat! That night we went to a restaurant where they bring you a tabletop grill covered in different meats. Everything was delicious. It was at this restaurant that I lost my new hat...remember this.

The next day we met up with a friend of a friend who is Chileno and he showed us all around Valparaiso, up and down several steep hills with buildings covered in colorful murals. Valpo is right by the water, so you can smell the ocean from the city, and see the ocean from almost any point because it's so hilly that it's organized like stadium seating. For lunch with tried shrimp and cheese empanadas and bubbling bowls of mariscos (not me, my friends did). I ate tons of shrimp. After walking all over this lively town (and adjusting to the Chilean accent) we were totally spent and needed to recoop at the hostel in preparation for the futbol game, Chile vs. Venezuela. The game was really fun to watch because we were in a crowded bar full of excited Chilenos yelling and celebrating and singing Chilean songs. I really enjoyed their patriotism...which we encountered in full force later on with comments like "I don't LIKE the United States". We went to a funky bar after that where there was a man with dreads selling plastic wrapped sushi for four dollars. Globalization? Is was comical. We danced the night away at a really fun place and by the time we got home it was time to leave for the bus home. We arrived at the bus terminal on one hour of sleep only to find out the pass was closed and we had to stay in Chile (fine with us!). So we walked back to the hostel in the rain, told them they didn't need to clean the room and that we just wanted to get back into bed. We slept that whole day and watched movies which was perfect because the next day we would have to stay again and it was finally beach weather. We lazied away the entire next day on the beach until sunset. It was enchanting. Next: spicy Mexican food on the beach, finally some picante! While we were at Tiki Tacos piling on the jalapenos, the server from a couple nights before caught my eye from the sidewalk outside. He doubles back, and shows up fifteen minutes later with my lost hat! The Chileans were good to us.
Note: Bundle up for customs because it's outdoors at the top of a windy snowcapped peak. No wonder I came back with a cold.

Chile!

Click on the album to see the photos:

Buenos Aires

A couple of weeks ago (yeah, I'm behind on writing) I had the opportunity to go to Buenos Aires with my host sister, Carolina, and since she has so much to teach me about the language and the culture here, (also I enjoy her a lot) I jumped at the opportunity. The bus ride was a riot. They gave us socks to wear, blankets to cuddle with, and a snack and something to drink. Later they served us a plate full of cold things like salad and bread, and then a warm meal with chicken and wine if we wanted. It was comical. We stayed in a funky hostel in a nice neighborhood in Buenos Aires. I shared a room with a fun girl from California who had been traveling for a few months and was supposed to go back to the states. It was a weird thought, she would be setting foot in the US tomorrow. For me that day was months away.
The first day I was on my own because Carolina was doing other things. I walked all around the area, down shady streets, through markets and bustling shops. It was alive and vibrant. The clothes in the shop windows were totally weird. We saw sandal-boots with strappy sandals on the bottom, then leather boots from the ankle to the knee...don't forget a heel. There were also clothes I really wanted to have in my own closet but I resisted.
I continued my trek to the planetarium. Someone greeted me and said "the next show will be at 4:30." I looked at my watch: 3:00. I asked "is there anything to look at in the meantime?" "No." So, I took myself to the zoo, on the other side of this enormous park. In the states peacocks roam freely around the zoo for small children to chase. Well here, there is an abundance of a certain animal to which I still cannot give a name. Imagine a kangaroo-small dog-cartoon mix and you've got it. The zoo was disheartening because a lot of the animals lived in small white rooms and looked hungry and sad; although they had the largest bug collection I have ever seen. At one point I found myself standing in a dark reptile room, only to notice a small hole in the corner of the glass enclosure. I got out of there quickly.
That night I invited my new friend from California to go out with my friend Beckie and I. Beckie is a close friend who went to El Salvador with me, and she is studying in BsAs. We went to an electronic tango show in an old warehouse, colorfully painted with a funky vibe. It wasn't what we expected, but we enjoyed the time.
The next day I explored the city with Beckie, and we found ourselves at the horse races. When we tried to buy tickets, they turned us away because I was wearing sandals, but someone said "you can go to the free side over there." Luckily, the free side was the most fun. This is where everyone is yelling and swearing and having fun. It was fun to watch the races but it was even better to spend time with someone I really know. We sat and talked for hours. While we talked we watched this man put brick siding on the side of a building, at a painstaking speed. It was so comical to us, we wanted to show him a better way but resisted. Beckie's host mom is the ex wife of a famous celebrity in BsAs and I was fortunate to meet her because she is a hoot. She was so full of energy and gusto. After meeting her, we went out for a steak dinner. It was delicious; the meat here is divine. We finished our meal at 2 am, laughing at the ridiculousness.

The next day we explored more of BsAs and went to Puerto Madero, a fancier part of BsAs because I wanted to see the water. The water was brown, and it was not the ocean, but a river. That's okay, the Mexican food we ate hit the spot and the riverwalk added to the pleasantries of the meal. We also went to an artisan market where I finally found the perfect mate gourd. I changed my mind about Buenos Aires, it's a great city.